Despite focusing on “design, not styling,” for all its low-cut, thigh-high zing, Anthony Vaccarello’s debut played it safe.
PARIS, France — “A clin d’oeil, a wink,” was Anthony Vaccarello’s description of his debut at Saint Laurent on Monday night. He wanted to lighten the legacy he’s inherited. “It’s heavy,” he said. “Everyone has their own interpretation, and I know I can’t please everyone. But neither could Yves.”
Or, he might have added, the handful of designers who have carried the torch since Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002: Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford, Stefano Pilatiand, most controversially, Hedi Slimane, who has left Vaccarello with a billion-dollar business to sustain. Vaccarello insisted they’d all inspired him in some way, if only because their work for the house consolidated just how strong its design DNA was.
“El armario de una mujer no debería cambiar cada seis meses. Deberías ser capaz de usar siempre las prendas que ya tienes añadiéndoles algo”. Yves Saint laurent
Per a press release from parent company Kering, Vaccarello’s appointment as creative director is effective immediately, and he will show his first collection for the brand this coming October.
His approach didn’t just work commercially, with the more staid takes on the runway looks, like Perfectos and Chelsea boots, flying off the shelves. It impacted, for better or for worse, the way luxury fashion works.
Much has been written about the way Slimane the designer – how he reinvented menswear during his time at Dior, redefining the silhouette of the modern man and popularising the super-skinny look – Slimane’s achievements with Saint Laurent also exemplifies best practice for luxury companies.